Guest Kim Zemek reports back from Uganda

The Nile Safari was a spectacular trip!

It really made me fall in love with Uganda. The outfitters accommodated our every wish, they are really incredible people. They have beautiful, well cared for, well trained horses that love their job. The people we passed by in the villages, especially the children who lined up everywhere to wave, were fascinating. Every little detail about the entire trip was perfect, we didn’t have to worry about anything.

The accommodations throughout the entire trip were first class. Each lodge was very special with the Wild Waters Lodge in the middle of the Nile like a fantasy come true! The food everywhere was delicious with all the fresh fruit and vegetables that we could eat. A few of us rafted the Nile while at Wild Waters and that was perfect with the just the right amount of excitement! The rafting company really took care of us.

Our guide during our extension at Bwindi made sure we did everything that we wanted to do while there. The gorilla trekking was amazing, we went to a family of 16 the first day and the second day saw a smaller group with a week old baby. We got to spend a lot of time with the silverback that day. Each day was a pretty leisurely hike, not like what we had heard!

I see why Uganda is called the Pearl of Africa! I can’t thank you enough for setting up this life changing trip.

Join Hadley Fox from Equitours on a return ride in one of our favorite places: the Masai Mara, a place of unique natural beauty and biodiversity of wildlife

Day 1, December 28, 2025

We have arrived in the Masai Mara in Kenya. It has been a rainy day (our small plane into the bush had to divert to another airstrip, where we waited more than two hours for skies to clear enough for a safe landing in Mara North), which provided dramatic lighting for our introductory ride this afternoon. As we rode, we viewed giraffe, hyena, topi, jackal, Cape buffalo. After about an hour, we came upon a mother lion with 4 two year old cubs she is raising. As we walked away, two of the boys perked up and started following us. Simon, our guide, told us they were pushing us around a corner into their third brother. Sure enough, that is exactly what happened. Simon had us stop and turn to face them periodically, and he used his massive bullwhip to get their attention. They followed us for probably 30 minutes before we crossed a small river, and they melted into the background. Nothing like starting a riding safari with a little light lion stalking on day one! As I write this, I am lying in my tent, listening to hippo grunts in the river alongside our tent. Can’t wait to see what tomorrow holds!

Day 2,  December 29, 2025

Another day in the Masai Mara. Today started out with an early morning ride before breakfast. We observed Cape buffalo, giraffe, zebra, warthog, a mother and baby topi , mother impala who looked a bit lost and confused (our guide reckoned that she had lost her baby), and then we found our hungry lion pride from the evening before. Only now they were no longer hungry! We found them on a kill, a topi, and from looking at it, Simon estimated it had been killed after midnight. Very fresh. After they left, we approached the carcass and watched the vultures and marabou stork cleaning up. After this, we came upon a baby lion cub who was lying down and would likely never get up again. Rangers told us the cub had broken a leg (likely an adult male lion being the cause) and would almost definitely die. An incredible morning observing the cycle of life— from the young baby topi to the forlorn mother impala to the satiated pride of young lions to the dying lion cub. We saw the rhythms of nature working from many different angles. I also took some photos of a baby zebra and its mother — I really love watching zebra. Seeing the herd interactions, the long legs of the babies (our guide told me this is so when a predator sees a dazzle of zebra, they won’t see a baby below its mother’s belly, it’s protective for the babies)— I just couldn’t get enough of them today!

Day 3, December 30, 2025

Today we moved camps, which was about a 15 mile ride, and we are camping up at our highest point of the trip on the escarpment. We had to cross the Mara River, avoiding the crocodiles and hippos that live there. There is a video of the river crossing— the crack you occasionally here is Simon’s bullwhip, putting the hippos on alert as we cross. You can see several of the hippo heads poking out of river.

We saw lovely herds of elephant this morning We didn’t get too close, as a cow widened her ears, flipped her trunk and stepped towards us. Simon told her, “I hear you loud and clear,” and we immediately stopped advancing. She had a little baby, about 2 months old, and we did not want to push her limits in any way when she was feeling protective.

Snaffles, a really neat horse I remember a friend rode on safari back in 2015, followed us loose today, and he seemed to love the freedom. As we neared the base of the escarpment to climb up, the rain rolled in, and the lighting became dramatic. The last person was just zipping her rain coat as the skies opened up. It has been years since I’ve been such intense rain. It was a DOWNPOUR. I had water above my ankle in one boot from falling rain and up to the ankle in the other one. It took about an hour to get to camp from where we were, and to give my entire group credit, there was no negative chatter. We were cold and wet, and the rain kept coming— it was not ideal, but everyone stayed positive. We took warm showers upon arrival and are now settled in our tents. Tomorrow we move camp again, so we will see another new side of this incredible conservancy.

Our horses. I am riding an Arab-cross named Nutella. She is my favorite horse I’ve ridden on a safari, and one of my top 5 I’ve ridden in the world. She is so perfect for me. When Simon, our outfitter, took me to her, he said, “she’s busy, she has a good walk, she’s a bit impatient— just don’t irritate her.” Me too, girl— I’m busy, I walk fast, and I don’t like to be irritated.  The first time I mounted, she pulled a bit of a face, but she hasn’t done that since, so I like to think she is liking me too! I normally get cantering videos of my guests, but so far she’s been a bit too strong for me to ride one handed. Simon says I’ll be able to later in the week, that she’ll settle.

Richard is on Angel, who is, in fact, an angel for him. He’s been ponying Tristan, which is making him feel safer with all the wildlife and the faster canters. Angel is being an angel about this different role. Funnily enough, Tristan’s horse is dominant to Angel, so she regularly nips her and puts her in her place from behind. It’s amusing to watch.

Tristan is riding Pauline, a sweet mare who was ridden by our friend on our last safari. I loved her look then, and I love her even more now — she is being so good to him. Tristan was nervous before he rode Pauline the first time, naturally, and I was able to tell him quite honestly that I’ve known this mare longer than I’ve known him! That made him feel better. The canters have gotten longer and faster as the week has gone on, and he’s feeling so confident.

We are so grateful to these incredible horses for keeping us safe during unpredictable moments, giving us exhilarating canters, allowing us to view the wildlife in close proximity, and being so sweet when we handle them on the ground.

Day 5, January 1, 2026

For New Year’s Eve, we took a game drive at sunset to view lions and then elephants. It was incredible how close we were and how relaxed the animals remained. We had champagne and toasted endings and beginnings, old friends and new.

I had two conversations yesterday about the Chinese calendar and how we are moving from the year of the snake, which is about shedding what doesn’t serve you, accepting the change of transformation, and moving into the year of the horse, which is all about forward movement and clear-eyed purpose. When two separate people told me about this, I decided this was a message the universe particularly wanted me to hear. How fitting it is to be on horseback on the new year when we are moving into the year of the horse at the end of the month.

I think everyone here with us feels the significance of this trip—the beauty of east Africa, the noble bearing of the game in the wild, the connection with our horses, the physical tiredness we feel after riding all day and using our bodies well— we are all challenging ourselves, which is a powerful way to end one year and start another.
After our game drive we had a long dinner and stayed up past midnight with our friends. Richard and I haven’t been up for midnight on New Year’s Eve since Tristan was born. There was so much laughter, many stories, and a group rendition of auld lang syne.

Day 6, January 2, 2026

Yesterday we had a morning ride and came back to our same camp for lunch. Tristan and Richard went on a game drive with our friend Tanna while we rode, and they saw a leopard, her cub, and a cheetah. Very exciting morning for them! After lunch the rest of us went on a game drive to look for wildlife. We found the leopard in her tree, but no baby and no cheetah. How incredible to see such a majestic cat asleep in a tree, her body as relaxed as a draped noodle through the branches.

We then went on an evening ride to a beautiful acacia tree, where we met the Land Rovers. We dismounted for sundowners and the talented staff leapt on our horses and rode them back to camp, so we could enjoy sunset and drive back in the vehicles in the dark. What a way to end the day!

Today after a long morning ride, we returned to camp for a late lunch, shower, and siesta. We then loaded up into the Land Rovers and headed out for a game drive to see cheetah, observe a baboon troop, drive through a Cape buffalo herd with egrets perching upon them, and watch the playful black-faced monkeys.

There are only 40 cheetah left in the Mara— they require so much space to hunt that the encroachment of humans has not been kind to them the past decades. As solitary cats, the females raise their babies alone, and 90% of babies die before 3 months of age, primarily due to lions and hyenas. What spectacular animals— their speed, their lean bodies, their unique coats, their tear stained eyes. They are the smallest of the big cats, and they have few defenses, which makes them vulnerable to lions and leopards. They also have to eat frequently, given their slim frames and ability to run 75 mph, which also makes survival challenging.

The baboons were hysterical to watch. The female in the photograph was meticulously grooming the baby in her arms. Then this male walked over and plopped down in front of her asking for attention. The baby scampered off, and she started inspecting her own fur, doing anything she could to avoid giving the male the time of day. She ignored him for a solid 15 minutes, just made him beg for her attention!

The Cape buffalo and their egret friends were very charming to watch. As Daisy, one of our guides, told us— some people consider the egret the real king of Africa because it gets to ride around on the mighty Cape buffalo!

Day 7, January 3, 2026

Today was our longest day— almost 30 miles! On our first leg we found a lion and lioness on honeymoon. They leave the pride and copulate about once every 20 minutes for four days before rejoining. What an incredible event to witness! The statistic is that two lions mate 1000 times to get one male lion cub to adulthood. Extraordinary. We stopped for breakfast, rode another couple hours over short grass and smooth ground (so much cantering!), and then stopped for lunch at my favorite spot thus far for a barbecue and a variety of salads.

Day 8, January 4, 2026

After our long day, we arrived at our final camp for our last night of safari. About half of us decided to go on a sunrise ride the next morning before our plane ride to Deloraine, where we are all spending a few days. After running with the giraffe, we were able to get quite close to three bull elephant. It was a bright, sunny day, which made it a much more relaxing 30 minute flight to Deloraine. Our departure flight to the Mara was on a cloudy, rainy day, so we had to land at a different airstrip for a couple hours to wait for things to clear enough to finish our flight to Mara North. So this one felt like a breeze!

Day 9, January 5, 2026

It is so special to be back at Deloraine! This was where Richard and I met, and we’ve had good laughs with our group, reenacting our first conversation on the couch in the sitting room. The landscape is very different here, so we are all enjoying riding through ancient forest, climbing a volcano to find expansive views of the Rift Valley, exploring the various corners of the estate from horseback. This is where the horses live when they are not on safari, and what an idyllic home it is for them. It was such fun to welcome the lorry back and to see our hard-working safari horses turned out on pasture for a rest.

We arrived, got settled in our rooms, and then went out for an evening ride. Tristan is riding Bardomat, who has been mostly retired from safaris now. Bardomat is all business, has a serious walk, and I just love his character and head carriage. Tristan is enjoying riding independently again. This morning took us on a longer ride, after which we had lunch by the pool.

In the evening, people had the opportunity to try their hands at polo and also to try riding side saddle. I had never ridden side saddle before, and I was excited to see what it was like. I was surprised how similar the balance was to regular riding— I found it an easier transition than I thought it would be. Before sunset, Bertie, the British gap year student who was on safari with us and has also come to Deloraine with us, led us through a game of croquet. Tristan loved it and thinks we need a new evening lawn sport at the ranch!

Day 10, January 6, 2026

Cindy Voorspuy, one of the most remarkable horsewomen I know, took us this morning on a ride to a striking gorge. Then we continued onto a dam, where abundant birdlife congregates. We saw pelicans and crowned cranes, which are my favorite birds I’ve seen. They are so festive! At the dam, we took our horses out deep into the water. One person swam, but the rest of us enjoyed the splashing and marching through the water. So many fun things to do on horseback! Richard’s horse plunged into a deep spot, and the two very nearly submerged. We returned to Deloraine for another delicious lunch by the pool.

On our final evening at Deloraine we went on a walk to visit the foals and the numerous vegetable gardens. Avocado trees, a variety of lettuce types, bell peppers, fennel, asparagus and so much more. I’m not in Wyoming anymore! We then returned to the house, where Cindy taught Tristan to play fireball football. They were kicking around flaming orbs! She is now his fairy godmother. Finally, Tristan had the sweet border terrier puppy in his lap, which made going to sleep oh so hard. So glad we have a final ride in the morning and lunch here before departure!

Day 11, January 7, 2026

My last morning at Deloraine started with a beautiful view of the rising sun from the balcony outside my room, followed by an early morning run up the airstrip , then a final ride with lovely cantering around their exercise track.

I can’t imagine a more perfect morning to conclude our time here.

Getting to know Monte Velho

By ride consultant Biggi Hayes

I’ve had the pleasure of visiting Monte Velho in Portugal for a few days, arriving there late on a Saturday night. The driver Monte Velho sent was knowledgeable an everything worked seamlessly and soon I was whisked away for the 1.5 hour drive to the Eco Resort, where I arrived at nearly midnight.

Monte Velho is out in the countryside with the nearby village about 15 min away. Upon arrival a wonderful peaceful feeling washed over me and I knew I would enjoy my short time there.
Sunday is a rest day for both the horses and the instructors and so I used the time to rest up, use the wifi and relax. I enjoyed a couple of short walks and took advantage of a massage that is available to book throughout the week and helps the recovery from long travel days. Sunday is the general arrival day and later in the afternoon I was joined by the other guests who were booked for the week of riding. It was an eclectic group, and they came from all over the world: Australia, Canada and Belgium and it was fun getting to know everyone.

Monday morning starts with semi- private lessons for all guests. At Monte Velho you can choose to do a full 5 days of lessons, riding twice a day with a trail ride too, or adjust the number of lessons and trail rides that work best for you. Bernardo was my instructor for both lessons and under his watchful eye I felt the correct movements and learned to refine my aids, this helps both horses and riders to be more precise. It took work but the reward was incredible!

On Monday afternoon, the owner Diogo took a few of us for a trail ride to explore a part of their large property. What a pleasure to ride with him and learn more about the resort. Afterwards we all met in the stable yard and joined a breeding tour as the facility has a large breeding operation of their own stock. It was very interesting to learn of Diogo’s breeding philosophy and how he plans to improve the existing bloodlines and Lusitano breed to cement its importance as a world class dressage horse that will be able to compete against the Warmbloods in the sport. What an exciting vision for the future.

After a quick refresh we all met again, this time in the comfortable living room to enjoy a wine tasting, which is a special treat that is offered once during the week. We tried a vinho verde local to Portugal which was very fruity and on the sweeter side, a perfect summer wine with a crisp fruity note. Since I am not much of a red wine drinker, I only tasted a sip of one from Monte Velho’s own winery. Afterward we sat down for another wonderful dinner and shared horse stories. A perfect day.

Tuesday morning I had the opportunity for another early lesson before heading back to the airport. While this was a quick trip for me to get to know this beautiful and peaceful eco-resort, I am already planning my return for next year to continue my dressage education.

Arriving at our hosts’ farm, Sapucai, to start our riding trip was a somewhat surreal experience. Having already had a night in Bariloche and gotten to meet the group and our guides, we had driven about 3 hours on a rainy day further and further into what seemed like untouched wilderness. After about 1.5 hours on the highway when the truck turned onto dirt road, we somewhat nervously asked where we were heading – bathroom break? No, another 1.5 hour to our destination, through increasingly remote land, rough roads, over rivers. Although it looked like wilderness, what we drove and later rode over was actually predominantly private land, some owned by sheiks in the Middle East as real estate investments, other sections kept as hunting grounds for the local deer, and other pieces are family farming homesteads. When we turned down the final hill into Sapucai’s river valley the green oasis welcomed us. So did Tami, the wife of our guide, Dominik, and the owner of this slice of paradise. With literal open arms she brought us into their home where we would share meals before and after our pack trip into the mountains. Tami is a generous host, and produced amazing meals on her woodstove, often cleaning up with a headlamp, with no electricity onsite. While the pack trip to come was an incredible experience, my favorite times might have been at Sapucai, where we felt authentically welcomed into their simple way of life. Cats sit on windowsills, dogs rub against you for a pat, while horses with foals walk through the lawn outside and geese chatter in the pasture; a true animal heaven.

Our homes are in comfortable yurts, decorated nicely with warm beds and a woodstove, which Dom was kind enough to light for us after our first ride in wind and rain. Each yurt has its own bathroom yurt behind, with toilet and sink and a shower with a wood heated water heater. Tami had the water warm for us whenever we returned from riding, and it was the loveliest luxury after our time camping!

We spent three nights away from Sapucai, in the fully capable hands of guides Dominik and Sebastian. The weather had cleared, and although camping nights were cold, the days were sunny and warm. The accommodations were basic, but the hospitality remained. I enjoyed riding from Sapucai past neighbors’ lands, where Dom would yell a greeting and would often receive a response. We had the opportunity to enjoy lunch at their neighbor’s, whose son has been a guide, provided the horse I rode and venison to us while camping. When we arrived at our camping destination we found a saddle bag filled with deer that had been hunted locally, which Seb prepared expertly over the campfire. Manuel appeared that evening on his way home with his goat herd and dogs, and joined us in enjoying it for dinner.

Whatever feeling of being truly away from it all we had experienced at Sapucai was only increased as we headed into the mountains. The views were spectacular and the horses were safe and kind. We had several pack horses and a spare saddle horse, so in addition to enjoying the views, we all assisted with herding and ponying the loose horses. Several days we needed to keep a brisk pace at walk and jog along the Chubut river to reach our destination, and the days passed quickly full of good riding, horses, food and company.

We had the longest and perhaps most difficult day of riding once we had returned to Sapucai and were well rested at home in our yurts. The seven hour day took up straight up rocky mountains to see unique “lagunas” and more beautiful views.

I enjoyed the adventure of this ride, and the tactful care our hosts took of us throughout. They live a unique, remote lifestyle which we’re lucky they are happy to share with us.

  • By Megan Barrett

Thank you to Federica Fainelli for this great review!

I spent a week at the jumping clinic in Bandera, Texas: cowboys’ capital of the world! Diane, the owner and instructor, is phenomenal – just listen to her if you want to improve, she graciously tells it as it is. Lessons combine horsemanship, groundwork and jumping techniques. Afternoons are dedicated to trail rides in the hill country state park area. Canters in the pasture are unforgettable. Horses are beautiful, masterfully trained and much loved, and you will always feel safe around them. This is a true gem.

The Estancia los Potreros in Argentina has long been a partner of Equitours and we have sent many happy guests over the decades. I was lucky enough to visit for a few nights and share my impressions.

Atmosphere

The Estancia strikes a balance between authentic old world charm and modern convenience. The rooms are welcoming and comfortable, with modern showers and inviting beds which are made each morning and turned down (complete with pillowcase candies!) each evening. The common areas display the family’s long history in the area, as the Anglo-Argentine family has been welcoming guests since the 1940s; a history in the area which has always been intertwined with horses.

Every effort is made for you to feel at home, comfortable and welcomed.

Staff

The staff is numerous and attentive, both behind the scenes and at your call. There are several European native English-speaking guides that accompany you on your activities – riding, walking, drives – and host you at mealtimes. These positions are generally volunteer for duration of about 3 months and the young women who filled them during my visit were consistently welcoming, helpful, kind and interesting, as well as lovely riders and knowledgeable horsewomen. Due to the varying and often limited time they’ve spent on the estancia and in Argentina, they are not the founts of information that the owner, Kevin, and manager, Georgia are, and so it is fascinating to also spend time with them.

The local Argentine staff is Spanish speaking and therefore do not interact directly with guests. A gaucho leads each ride, and although rarely directly interacts with riders, carefully assists with horse and tack needs and keeps a close eye on riders during canters. They will start with a questioning, “Galope?” to gauge interest in moving into the canter, and then constantly watch the line of riders behind them to adjust the pace accordingly. It was a thrill to follow them into seemingly faster and faster paces on the capable and talented horses! We also had the opportunity to “help” move cattle (the gauchos did all the work!) and watch them separate the herd. It was impressive to watch their riding and roping skills on full display. 

The kitchen and housekeeping staff are efficient and skilled. When at breakfast your room is magically prepared for your day, with shutters opened and bed made, filtered water replenished and laundry collected. The meals are filling and well rounded, three a day plus a tea and drink hour – with dinners and lunches providing a sampling of local style asados, vegetables, fresh breads and desserts.

Horses

The Criollo horses are typically ridden in the mornings and the Peruvian Pasos in the afternoon. A quick way to tell the breed at a glance is that the Criollos have the traditional roached mane and forelock while the Pasos’ are free flowing. All horses are meticulously maintained and in good condition; a pleasure to ride. They are responsive and light, willing and brave and all get along well together. There were several guests who had never ridden before and were well taken care of by the guides and horses with no issue, and another group who enjoyed the opportunity for flat out gallops.

It was my first time riding a Paso and I was not disappointed. It was thrilling to experience the smooth floating gaits, and I felt as if I was magically and effortlessly being transported over the green rolling hills of the estancia. The saddles are of a comfortable trail style covered with sheepskins, and your horses are fully prepared for you.

It was an absolute pleasure to be able to spend a few days at the estancia. It was a delight to have every need anticipated and filled – awaiting your arrival with lemonade in hand, a water bottle and filtered water replenished in your room are a good examples – and to spend each day riding fantastic horses through the lovely countryside. A true paradise for the horse lover!

By Megan Barrett

Join guest Allsion Akers on a riding experience through the picturesque and culturally rich “Valley of the Gredos.”

Day 1

I found a yummy café and pastries and explored a tiny bit of Madrid before getting picked up by our riding tour for a quick stop in historic Ávila, then on to our first Parador de Gredos for the next two nights where we met our riding guide, Selma and enjoyed a wonderful local dinner together. Looking forward to riding the rest of the week!

Day 2

Our guides Selma and Rose are amazing and we were expertly paired with our horses and off we went. I love my sassy but sweet mare, Mara. Just stay out of her face and she’s game for anything – plus she has no patience and is ready to go just like my horses at home. Absolutely incredible riding through the mountain countryside. Everywhere you turn it’s a different view. Even my camera can’t capture the beauty: riding next to (or through) cattle, bulls, horses, rivers, forests, boulders, open land… you truly get a feel for this region. Our aperitivo stop included a full delicious spread, pumpkin broth, and sherry but then we just rode to the next lunch stop where we were served incredible homemade paella, wine, and fresh cheese/chorizo/garden tomatoes. SO MUCH DELICIOUS FOOD! We somehow still had room for another incredible dinner at Parador de Gredos where I had smoked trout. Tomorrow we embark on our town by town ride with new hotels!

Day 3

Oh the rain we woke up to! We donned our rain gear and headed out with our luggage and off we went to ride it out to our next village for the night! While it did rain pretty steadily in the beginning, by the afternoon it turned light and honestly contributed to such a stunning landscape. It did make for a couple of very deep and fast moving river crossings, though! Mara was in a mare mood from the rain and being the shortest across the rivers and I don’t blame her! This trip was a mixture of forests, very rocky mountain paths, and village riding. The horses were so sure footed you just trust them even in the wet conditions. After an aperitivo stop in a refuge building (so welcome after the cold rain with sherry and a hot fire), we rode on to lunch in a beautiful community center looking down on the towns that we then rode through! It was also the most incredible lunch served by our personal chef Raul- mushroom soup, fresh salad, grilled zucchini and pumpkin, the most flavorful grilled chicken and pancetta I’ve ever had, chorizo and black pudding sausage, veal and papas fritas, and carrot cake with delicious Spanish wine. There was roadwork on the original route we were going to take featuring a medieval bridge but we followed a medieval trading route instead (and still went over another medieval bridge with no sides) and made it to our next bed and breakfast for the night in Navalpernal de Tormes! We rode right up and the horses stay in the pasture outside of our window – I wish we had this in the US!!!

Day 4

Ah, ¡Dios mío! What a beautiful day it turned out to be. Woke up to the soothing sounds of cattle migration, gave morning apples to our horses, packed our luggage back up and off we went back through town by horseback en route to Barco de Avila. This ride featured so many changing landscapes. A very “meditative ride” as Selma described it – with a few canters of course. The only adventure this time was a fallen tree blocking our path from the storm the night before. Riding into the hotel Hotel Izán Puerta de Gredos in Barco de Avila was straight out of a fairytale. Such an incredibly beautiful place. The horses love the pasture here and we found welcome respite in the spa like hotel rooms. I of course also made friends with a cat who followed me around while I explored the grounds. We only had a small chance to explore downtown (but caught a full moon!) before a downpour had us running through the streets to our dinner – an award winning wine shop where we were served expertly paired wine and tapas for a pairing dinner and explanation of Spanish wines. Did we leave with a bottle or many cases?? We may never tell… or share. I am sad to leave this place!

Day 5

Speaking of fairytales… today’s ride included a sherry aperitivo stop at a castle! This ride was a very long but fast ride. We began at 9:45am and ended at our next hotel around 7:15pm! But oh the views and the experience of watching the same mountain go from seeming so far off in the distance, to up close next to you, to now so far behind you! This day included more beautiful bridges (also some non horsey people waving umbrellas lol), riding through many villages, long canters through the valleys, lunch break with the locals in the cutest little restaurant in a small village, making friends with dogs, and beautiful medieval castles. Pulling up (literally) to our next hotel in Hoyorredonda during golden hour as the sun was setting, feeding and turning our horses out in the paddock right behind the place, and enjoying a gin and tonic on the patio was a fitting end to a special day. Most entertaining might be herding/ponying Janto, our extra horse for the day due to a rider taking a day off. He just plodded along from village to village as all stopped to watch in awe of a free horse so well behaved. We happened to need him later on in the ride as we did some switching due to a slight lameness. Still completely blown away by the Iberian landscape and can’t imagine exploring this country any other way than by horseback!

Day 6

“From race horses to mountain goats” A friend put it perfectly – there’s no other way to describe today. It was an absolutely incredible day and my favorite so far. Each day gets more spectacular somehow! This was actually our longest ride yet at 27 miles but we finished quicker than yesterday. Setting out from Hoyorredonda we descended down a bit to the flat foothills where we were able to gallop down a never ending path. Oh the fun!! I have never gone so fast in my life. Mara just kicked it into next gear and next gear and next gear! She still couldn’t catch her sister Bonita, though, who beat us all. Then we began our ascent up the mountain, with a perfect little picnic spot before the hard part! After lunch it was straight upb- you just get in 2 point, grab mane, and let them find their way over the rocks and up the mountain. We followed an ancient Roman built “road” (aka rocks), through free ranging cattle and horses all the way to the very top of the mountain. What amazing, so well bred and trained horses we have. The most mind blowing part? At the foothills Selma pointed out mountain pass so far in the distance and said we will be riding through that. We didn’t even realize it but we turned around halfway up the mountain and could look back down from a new vantage point right through that pass back at the foothills we galloped in the morning that were now so far away. Ah, Spain… you are incredible.

Day 7

We completed riding 110 miles in 6 days!!! This day was a relaxing but playful, beautiful day with the sun shining down on our smiling faces for the final ride of the trip. The contrasts between the vibrant yellows and greens and the clear views of the Gredos was so idyllic as we strolled along peacefully and took it all in. We let our inner child out as soon as Selma asked, “you guys want to chase some cattle? Pick one and just go!” I was the first one out there jumping at the chance to laugh and chase and canter through the fields like a reining horse. Yet another versatility button these horses can push! We found a complete wild boar skull, grid searched a part of the land to try and find a fly stick Selma lost the other month (unsuccessfully, unfortunately), stopped to take fun group and solo pictures with the mountain backdrop, said hello to the free ranging horses and foals, and had a last canter with our partners. The best part was enjoying a gorgeous, sunny picnic surrounded by curious cattle- extra long to take advantage of enjoying a little siesta in the sun. A fitting ending ride to a perfect week. A final night back at the Parador de Gredos for one last dinner and breakfast together as our little riding family.

My parting thoughts:

  • What I captured does not do justice to what I saw with my own two eyes in real life.
  • There is something special beyond words that a group of international people from all different countries and languages can come together and create a true bond over the shared love of horses and adventure. I came here only knowing my godmother. I’m leaving with 7 friends.
  • I also can’t imagine exploring this country any other way. This kind of tourism actually supports the small countryside villages and families in a way they appreciate and you can tell.
  • We were so well fed (TOO well fed!) by local chefs preparing regional Spanish dishes or a mixture of featured Spanish snacks at aperitivo stops, put up in authentic accommodations true to the culture of the villages, learned about the history of this country while riding through ancient Roman built roads and bridges and trade routes that no car would ever be able to traverse, and took in the native wildlife living peacefully in their own habitat.
  • This trip was so well coordinated by the outfitter. No small detail left out and every person made to feel special. The love of the horses, and the land, and the culture shone through every single moment.

Salud, Espana. Muchas, muchas gracias. What new adventures can my own horses and I get up to now?!

Join our Equitours team member Biggi Hayes on a horseback riding vacation through the historical and beautiful Albanian landscape.

Albania had not been a destination on my radar for horseback riding, but Equitours received a lovely invitation to come and see for ourselves what this small country has to offer and I found myself planning a trip to learn more about this fascinating country, the outfitter and the trails they share with their guests.

I arrived in Tirana, the capital of Albania, late on a Saturday night after flying via Munich with Lufthansa, and made my way by foot to the Airport Garden Hotel which was a short distance from the arrivals hall. I had a pleasant night at the hotel and awaited my transfer to Gjirokaster to arrive in the early afternoon. I can honestly say I wasn’t quite sure what to expect in terms of fauna and flora. Knowing that Albania is north of Greece and I was visiting the country in mid May, I was expecting everything to be beige brown and more desert-like. To my surprise, however, as we drove south to Gjirokaster I was mesmerized by the green landscape which was in full bloom in high spring time. I couldn’t get enough of the emerald landscape surrounded by towering mountains.

Gjirokaster is an enchanting city with steep alleys, where each building has its history written in stone. Located in southern Albania, Gjirokastra lies on the slopes of the Drino River valley, in a dominant position and a landscape rich in history. This is the “city of a thousand staircases,” which includes hundreds of houses: Ottoman-type towers with stone roofs, wooden balconies and stone walls. With a magnificent castle on a steep hill, Gjirokastra is a magical city with a long history, and since 2005, it is part of UNESCO’s world heritage. Upon arrival in the city I was taken to the Hotel Kastro where everyone stays at the beginning and end of the ride. It is a quaint family owned hotel in the heart of town, minutes away from the old part. After dinner at a local restaurant I was ready to call it a night, yet excited about what lay ahead.

The horses are very surefooted and fun to ride

For the next couple of days I explored the Drino Valley on 2 two hour long rides from the stable which gave me an introduction to the horses, which came in handy a few days later as I joined a group of riders who were out on one of the weeklong mountain trails organized by the outfitter. The outfitter has been welcoming riding guests for over a decade. As founders, the owners and guides have succeeded in creating a great environment for their 42 horses and a harmonious and eco-friendly environment for their guests as well. The stable is situated amidst scenic hills, green valleys, surrounded by high mountains and rural life a few kilometers away from the city.

My first horse was the fun gelding Aoos who I got to ride on the two hour trails from the stables to get my footing, as I had not been in the saddle regularly for a couple of years. Aoos turned out to be fun and surefooted, and we enjoyed the first longer canters and gallops together. I was wondering if I would be able to ride him for the two days I was supposed to join the ride out, as it didn’t take me long to connect with Aoos, he had taken such good care of me and I felt my riding spirit returning.

The horses used are a local breed mix of Tarpan and Arab. They are small but perfectly suited to the rocky terrain being sure footed and accustomed to the long mountainous routes, allowing the riders to feel confident, relaxed and free to enjoy the stunning views.

In the time not spent riding I joined a cooking class, which was a super fun experience that is also offered during the week’s riding, and learned how to churn buttermilk and to make some local delicacies, all in the lovely home of the teacher and her family. Another interesting experience was creating a special kind of rolled up ice cream in one of the local shops. Earlier in the day we had also made a quick trip over the mountain to one of the seaside towns where riders stay on a separate itinerary, and I even had a chance to dip my toes in the Ionian Sea and view the Island of Corfu, which is not that many kilometers across the water from Albania.

The next morning I joined two days of riding out on the standard itinerary and experienced the overnight in a Greek minority village close to the border. Since the other riders had been out together for the last several days I was curious what it would be like to now join a cohesive group who had bonded out on the trail. To my delight I was welcomed with open arms and soon made new friends with the other riders. It was an eclectic group with riders from Germany, Poland, France, Belgium and the Netherlands as well as 3 riders from the US. We soon got the ‘how do you dos’ out of the way and were chatting amiably about everything under the sun. Thank goodness we were all like minded in many different ways.

The horse I was riding for the next couple of days was a mare named Nova who I came to trust and love over the kilometers we covered together. A sassy mare who loved a good canter and gallop, she reminded me of my late Arabian mare, Sunshine, and after about 30 min I knew we would have a blast. After the first long gallop across the open mountain meadows which were abloom with wildflowers I was in love. We were riding with the rest of the group all spread out and the sheer delight that comes from riding with the wind was bubbling up, and having a trustworthy and surefooted steed beneath me gave me a sense of freedom I hadn’t felt in a time now that my own horses have passed on.

After several hours of riding we came to the lunch stop along a refreshing creek winding through the wildflower covered meadow which was intoxicating. We enjoyed cool beers as lunch was dished out which included anything from salad to lamb and wonderful desserts to fortify us for the afternoon ahead. After riding for another 3 hours we arrived in the village of Polican where we stayed with a wonderful Greek family and enjoyed a feast for dinner.

The next morning we headed up to a high mountain trail crossing back over into the Drino Valley. At lunch time we stopped in the town of Labova for another big spread of wonderful local foods, everything from fresh salad and soup to balaclava desert, no effort was spared and Raki (a fruit brandy that is the national drink), wine and beer were also available. But first we explored the Church of Labova of the cross, the oldest church in Albania, constructed by Justinian the Great in 554. What a magnificent place. And for it still to be standing is an impressive architectural feat. Our guide shared with us the history of the church and it was a humbling experience to walk on the sacred ground.

During the ride we encountered lots of sheep and goat herds, guarded by sheep dogs and their shepherds

As we headed down into the valley I didn’t want my time on the ride to end, but I was scheduled to depart from Tirana the following day. Being part of this ride and this group had been very special; even though we only rode together for 2 days I hope to ride with them again. And as for Albania, I know I will return as time allows, as it now has a special place in my heart.

Enjoy a fun summer week in and around Westport, Ireland.

Journal by Biggi Hayes ~ Equitours riding consultant

The end of last May I was excited to be joining the Clew Bay Trail outside of the quaint town of Westport in Co Mayo, Ireland. A previous trip to check out a new outfitter in Northern Ireland in early March had left me quite chilly from a cold front moving through, so for this trip I packed more cold weather gear to be prepared.  Instead we ended up with an early summer heat wave and I had to go shopping for a few cooler shirt options and summer dresses as well – who would have thought! Temperatures in the mid 70’s are quite warm in Ireland for humans and horses alike and we had to take it slower on the trail but by the end of the day, walking into town for dinner along the beautiful greenways we revelled in it. It felt like summer magic was in the air. And magical the week turned out to be for myself and my two fellow riders.

Refreshing lunch stop.

The first two days we explored inland trails, meandered down canopied lanes, skirted the base of Croagh Patrick – an important pilgrimage site in County Mayo, rode through flocks of sheep, saw more sheep, stone walls and remains of several stone cottages and enjoyed picnic lunch al fresco while the horses grazed. We could see the holy mountain’s ever towering presence and by the third day of it beckoning me I worked up the nerve to climb it after riding, with one of the other riders joining me. What an unforgettable experience and the views of Clew Bay are breathtaking.

On this trip you ride for about 3-4 hours, which leaves plenty of time for evening adventures like this, as it stays light until almost 10 PM that time of year and it is an easy 10-15 min walk into town for dinners. At the end of the day the comfortable Lurgan Guesthouse provides a peaceful and tranquil environment and the owners Ena and Gerard share their Irish charm and wonderful hospitality with their guests and the breakfasts fortified us for the day ahead: both continental and cooked options were readily available every morning.

The following days we rode through peat bogs on country lanes, enjoyed lunch stops by babbling brooks, saw donkeys and more stonewalls with green fields pleasing the senses.  The horses on the ride are surefooted, fun and a pleasure to ride. I quickly fell in love with the mare Maggie who I had ridden several years ago on my previous quick visit. Every morning the horses are trailered to the starting points of the ride and the riders are transferred by vehicle as well, with both the driver and guide regaling us with local stories and folklore throughout the week.

“It was simply a magical and carefree week of blue sky, sunshine and summer, making new friends and riding through green fields, crossing streams and cantering along the shores of the West Coast of Ireland. “Slán go fóill” as they say in Irish, goodbye for now. As always I can’t wait to return.”

After cantering on the beach on Thursday afternoon, we went into town in search of traditional Irish music and the music and atmosphere did not disappoint. On the last day we enjoyed more splashing through the waves and taking in a few more canters on the Wild Atlantic Way.

For an unforgettable riding experience with beautiful views and warm hospitality, consider Ireland for your next adventure.

We were met at the tiny Kiruna airport by a pleasant staffer who introduced the members of the group and took us on the 20’ drive to the farm to start the Scandinavian Summer ride. There we moved into the guest houses just in time for a dinner of fish pulled from the nearby lake, prepared by Jennie, a genuinely talented cook who, with Hannah, was one of our two guides for the duration. The glassed-in dining room looks right into the barn, so we were watched by an the first of many adorable Icelandics. Our group consisted of 4 Swedes, 2 Germans, 2 French, and 2 Americans – all women (which made saunas, stream-bathing, and changing a lot less complicated). After dinner, we were asked what we wanted in terms of our horse for the week. I asked for a perfect horse, with lovely gaits, no stumbling, who likes all the other horses, who doesn’t pull and doesn’t need to be kicked constantly. So the next morning I was handed exactly that – Stormur – what an amazing guy! All the horses were excellent – everyone got what they asked for! They’re happy, healthy, interested horses, with excellent, comfortable tack.

This is a circular point to point ride that begins and ends at the farmhouse. Our first day was – I think – a seven-hour trek to the teepees – the longest of our 5 rides – not including the hour and a half lunch break (Jennie also cooked all the lunches, over a campfire). Hanna brought along her two terrific Australian sheepdogs, and cooking gear/food was carried by our trusty pack horse, who ran free, often wandering off to take in the views. The ride was long, but comfortable, walking, tolting, and trotting, with some dismounts to lead our horses through over bogs, over narrow plank bridges, or at a few especially steep spots. The arctic landscapes varied from birch forest to beautiful vernal pools, bogs, low-growing scrub, and, rarely, rock. There were zero issues with horses or riders. This is a great ride for intermediate or advanced riders – the distance is challenging but the horses and terrain are not. Although there were no official canters (and no gallops) you can always take one on your own. Our guides were helpful and always available to answer questions or check your girth, but Jennie and Hannah really are trying to give you as much freedom as possible, and, I think, build your self-confidence. You pick your own pace and position in the group, and most of the riding is in wide-open spaces past the tree line- sort of like high meadow riding, without the grass. I didn’t hear any corrections of anyone’s riding style – though maybe we had an especially trustworthy group? Every member of the group was an interesting, pleasant, competent person.

After our first ride we arrived at the teepees. I’m not a camping person, and I was a little startled to see – no pillows? The floor is covered in what- branches?? But my best sleeping nights were in the teepees – a mat and then a reindeer skin go on top of the brush, and it is springy, insulating and comfortable! We rode in late July, which meant daylight all night long. You could still enjoy the pleasant view from the latrine at 3am.

Throughout the ride you’re drinking and bathing in water from natural streams (surprisingly, not too cold). Once we arrived at the cabins, we were also able to enjoy a wonderful sauna next to a stream, where we could scoop out buckets of water for bathing inside the sauna (where we hid from the mosquitos). The mosquitoes were amazing- so many different species! We had one really bad night at the cabin because we had not properly secured our netting over the windows – be sure to have your guide double check – the mosquitos are very dense and will get through even a small gap. And bring a bottle of antihistamines – that really helps. This is a very busy ride – we were always either riding, caring for the horses, helping with meals/cleanup, bathing, eating, or sleeping. The closest thing to downtime was the 1-1.5 hr lunch break (for the horses). This was not a “party ride”. My fellow riders were *all* terrific people, and I really think this ride was focused on personal growth. But again, that will depend on you, and the people on your ride!

Our views along the ride, above the tree line, were amazing. Spectacularly peaceful, still lakes reflected the clouds and mountains, and each day we saw very cautious moose, watching us from a distance, as well as isolated birds that seemed to guide us, calling out each time we caught up to their perch.

The weather on our trip was ideal throughout. We put on our rain gear twice, seeing rain at a distance, but we never needed it (your experience may differ!). I suggest you not bring boots or raingear of your own, the farm has plenty to choose from, and if your own boots are not waterproof you don’t want them in the bogs.
The last ride arrives at the farmhouse just in time for a last dinner, which was spectacular (thanks again, Jennie!). The guests met again for breakfast, and then we went our separate ways. In our case, because the airport was closed for renovations, and we had bought tickets for the 14 hr sleeper train to Stockholm, which departed at 6pm. To fill the time before our train, the farm dropped us off at the famous Ice Hotel around 11am. We left our bags with the desk, had a great lunch, toured the carved-ice rooms, and walked to the excellent Sami Museum, before taking the taxi to the (again, very small) train station. Some of our fellow riders stayed a night in Kiruna, but they do not recommend it – the city is in the process of moving and is very empty. The night train, in Sweden, is an experience- not a fancy one, not always in good repair, not always reliable, but the beds are very comfy.

Written by Anne Britt, July 2024


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