Ride consultant Megan Barrett tests out a remote pack trip vacation in remote Northern Patagonia

Journeying into Patagonia

Arriving at our hosts’ farm, Sapucai, to start our Argentine horseback adventure was a somewhat surreal experience. Having already had a night in Bariloche and gotten to meet the group and our guides, we had driven about 3 hours on a rainy day further and further into what seemed like untouched wilderness. After about 1.5 hours on the highway when the truck turned onto dirt road, we somewhat nervously asked where we were heading – bathroom break? No, another 1.5 hour to our destination, through increasingly remote land, rough roads, over rivers. Although it looked like wilderness, what we drove and later rode over was actually predominantly private land, some owned by sheiks in the Middle East as real estate investments, other sections kept as hunting grounds for the local deer, and other pieces are family farming homesteads. When we turned down the final hill into Sapucai’s river valley the green oasis welcomed us. So did Tami, the wife of our guide, Dominik, and the owner of this slice of paradise. With literal open arms she brought us into their home where we would share meals before and after our pack trip into the mountains.

Yurt Life at the Farm

Tami is a generous host, and produced amazing meals on her woodstove, often cleaning up with a headlamp, with no electricity onsite. While the camping trip to come was an incredible experience, my favorite times might have been at Sapucai, where we felt authentically welcomed into their simple way of life. Cats sit on windowsills, dogs rub against you for a pat, while horses with foals walk through the lawn outside and geese chatter in the pasture; a true animal heaven.

Our yurt accommodation was comfortable, decorated nicely with warm beds and a woodstove, which Dom was kind enough to light for us after our first ride in wind and rain. Each yurt has its own bathroom yurt behind, with toilet and sink and a shower with a wood heated water heater. Tami had the water warm for us whenever we returned from riding, and it was the loveliest luxury after our time in tents!

Into the Mountains with Three Nights Camping

We spent three nights away from Sapucai, in the fully capable hands of guides Dominik and Sebastian. The weather had cleared, and although camping nights were cold, the days were sunny and warm. The accommodations were basic, but the hospitality remained. I enjoyed riding from Sapucai past neighbors’ lands, where Dom would yell a greeting and would often receive a response. We had the opportunity to enjoy lunch at their neighbor’s, whose son, Manuel, has been a guide, provided the horse I rode and venison to us while camping. We were surprised when we arrived at our camping destination to find a saddle bag filled with deer that had been hunted locally, which Seb prepared expertly over the campfire. Manuel himself appeared that evening on his way home with his goat herd and dogs, and joined us in enjoying his gift for dinner.

Whatever feeling of being truly away from it all we had experienced at Sapucai was only increased as we headed into the mountains for this pack trip portion. The views were spectacular and the horses were safe and kind. We had several pack horses and a spare saddle horse, so in addition to enjoying the views, we all assisted with herding and ponying the loose horses. Several days we needed to keep a brisk pace at walk and jog along the Chubut river to reach our destination, and the days passed quickly full of good riding, horses, food and company.

Returning through the Chubut Valley

We had the longest and perhaps most difficult day of riding once we had returned to Sapucai and were well rested at home in our yurts. The seven hour day took up straight up rocky mountains to see unique “lagunas” and more beautiful views.

I enjoyed the adventure of this ride, and the tactful care our hosts took of us throughout. They live a unique, remote lifestyle which we’re lucky they are happy to share with us.