Ride consultant Biggi Hayes explores Northern Portugal by horseback

This spring I had the pleasure of checking out two riding centers new to us — one in Galicia, based out of the Baiona, Spain area, followed by a visit to the northwest corner of Portugal for a new-to-us riding vacation in Peneda-Gerês National Park (Parque Nacional da Peneda-Gerês), our new ride On the Trails of Wolves and Wild Horses. The Peneda-Gerês National Park is only national park in Portugal, located in the extreme northwest of the country. It covers a large area of rugged mountains, wild oak forests in the valleys, and high plateaus with stunning views. The park is famous for its isolated mountain villages, ancient trails, and semi-wild garrano ponies — making it one of the most rewarding places for horseback riding in Portugal.

In one of these mountain villages, Castro Laboreiro, I met Pedro and his daughter Mariana, who have been running horseback riding tours from their stable outside the village for years. Pedro worked as a wildlife photographer and filmmaker before starting the trail riding business. He grew up riding, and his parents instilled his love of horses from an early age; he always dreamed of living in the countryside. Today, he and Mariana share this special corner of Portugal with international riding guests each year, offering a authentic riding adventures for experienced trail riders.

Arrival in Castro Laboreiro

Upon arrival in the village, we were shown to our rooms in the family-owned guesthouse, about 10 minutes from the stables. The property consists of five comfortable rooms, a courtyard sitting area that’s lovely on warmer days, and a large living, kitchen, and dining room where meals are taken. The week I was there turned much colder and quite rainy — mid-May is still a transitional season, and on the high plateau, winds and temperatures can turn fresh quickly — so we made good use of the wood stove, which kept things cozy as the wind and rain battered the world outside.

A small group of four ladies from Belgium were also booked in for the week. Since the outfitter only takes up to six riders, this Portuguese riding holiday has an intimate, small-group feel. Soon after arrival, we headed out with the horses for our first, shorter trail ride — a chance to get used to your mount for the week and learn the basics of tacking and untacking, which is part of each rider’s responsibility throughout the stay. We were soon off, bundled in our warmest gear, for a two-hour ride on the plateau. With low cloud cover, we couldn’t see much of the views below, but we caught glimpses of high meadows with gorse in bloom. A couple of weeks later, those same meadows would be full of native wildflowers, but it was still a touch early for the full spring display.

Riding the Lusitano Horses in Peneda-Gerês

I was paired with Picasso — or Pipi, as he was lovingly nicknamed by his owners — a younger Lusitano gelding ready and eager to explore. The horses here are lively and fun to ride, and this itinerary calls for an intermediate-plus rider with plenty of trail experience, since canters quickly turn into faster gallops and riders need to be comfortable in the saddle on these leggy Lusitanos and Lusitano crosses.

After the ride and lunch back at the accommodations, Pedro took us to the National Park Center to show us the terrain we’d be covering and to tell us about the wolves and wild horses this area is so famous for. In the evening, we had a lovely dinner in the village overlooking the valley below, with the Castelo de Castro Laboreiro in view. Later in the week, we climbed the trail to the castelo, the ruin of a Romanesque castle with a ring of walls surrounding a central keep and cistern, once used as a lookout for anyone approaching from the valley below.

Life at the Guesthouse: Food, Rhythm, and Hospitality

Breakfast was brought to the accommodations every morning at 8 AM, and we could eat at our own pace before saddling up to ride at 10 AM. Lunch was served picnic-style out on the trail, set up with tables and chairs. The presentation showed real attention to detail, courtesy of Mariana’s personal touch — she prepares all of the meals and can accommodate most dietary restrictions. Even with my newly acquired garlic allergy, I felt genuinely well taken care of. Lunches and dinners always began with a delicious soup and fresh salad, followed by a meat or fish dish, and every night Mariana outdid herself with a homemade dessert.

Riding Into the Valley of the Wolves

My favorite ride of the week was Wednesday’s trail into the Valley of the Wolves. The weather was pleasant, without the biting wind of the previous days, and as we rode deeper into the valley we passed several mares and foals from the wild garrano herds — a remarkable sight. Because of the local wolf population, the wild horse numbers are naturally kept in check, creating a delicate balance between the two species that requires very little human intervention.

Practical Tips for Your Portugal Riding Vacation

As I was feeling a bit under the weather, I sat out my final day of riding, which is easy to do since it’s a stationary, lodge-based ride rather than a point-to-point trek. A late-evening flight out of Porto required a two-hour private transfer to the airport. I loved flying out of Porto — it’s a smaller, easier airport to navigate than Lisbon, without the crowds. Airport transfers on Saturdays are provided by the outfitter and payable locally.

While I didn’t get the spring sunshine I’d hoped for, this trip left me eager to come back for another ride through Portugal — and next time, hopefully under the glorious sunshine this ride truly deserves.