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The introduction to Hungarian culture and history that my stay at Homoki Lodge offered was wonderfully eye-opening to this fascinating region. The lodge and itinerary do a fabulous job of incorporating cultural aspects, from the yurt accommodations, to the saddles you sit in, the wines you drink and the destinations you ride to. All facets seek to celebrate the area’s Magyar roots, in a modern and luxurious way that make them completely enjoyable. There are a variety of yurt options; ours had a jetted tub, a lovely queen bed on a raised platform and a comfortable outside terrace. I loved it; it was just so fun, and beautifully decorated with clean, modern touches. The dining area and lodge rooms are equally lovely, with a more traditional than modern design, but with the same charm.

Home Sweet Yurt

The lodge restaurant at breakfast

The hosts, Bixie and Oliver, met us even at our tragically late arrival time. Following the small, winding sand tracks to the lodge in our massive mini-bus, we had been sure we were terribly lost on the puszta, but when we arrived at the lodge Oliver was waiting, pálinka (traditional local brandy) in hand. The (very stiff!) drink was much appreciated, as was the dinner they graciously served at the late hour while briefing us on our days ahead. With me was my sister, Liz, whom I had talked into accompanying me although she had not ridden much since our shared childhood lessons. Due to this, an introductory ride was scheduled for her the following day so she could see how comfortable she still was in the saddle and how much she would want to do. I decided to dive into the all-day ride, and she would meet me and the riding group at the ride’s destination, the Rózsa Sándor commemorative house.

Kristina educating us on the famous bandit

Rózsa was a highwayman who operated in the area during the mid-1830s and gained the respect of the locals due to his loyalty during the Hungarian Revolution of 1848. The museum had great tidbits of history, and although all in the (amazingly difficult) Hungarian language, our English speaking guide, Kristina, gave us the tour and provided translations.

The guides did a great job and often went above and beyond, whether providing translation or cooking stew and singing in the evenings. The two head cowboys both aren’t English speaking, but they definitely understand perhaps more than they’d like us to think, and provided plenty of English instruction (“Trot! Keep distance!”) and we always had an English-speaking backup guide. Their horsemanship was impressive and they kept a careful eye on all of us and the horses, especially as we moved into faster gaits. And we did go fast! After being advised, “trot, then canter, then gallop…” gallop we did indeed! The flat, sandy terrain is perfect for this, and the horses fit and well-accustomed, making it an awesomely fun experience! Thanks to the wranglers’ watchful eye and the horses’ ratability, Liz also felt comfortable at the canter, and our second day we all rode out together to the buffalo reserve in Mórahalom.

Happy Bubalus Bubalis

These bovids originated in in South Asia, as did the original Magyar inhabitants. They now enjoy their wetland reserve and can be viewed along with prolific birdlife from a raised viewing platform.

This was a long day of riding, much of it on the ever-present sandy roads, past crops of potatoes and fields of poppies, and homes with the Hungarian Puli dogs in the yards.

Endless fields

Although my muscles were aching at the end of the day and I looked forward to the jetted tub back home in the yurt, I appreciated the comfort the unique Hungarian saddle afforded. Styled in the traditional way, the high front and back afforded good stability, and modern padded seat and English style stirrups provided much-appreciated comfort. The final trots through rows of trees, with the warm sun dappling through the vibrant green surrounding us, were utterly peaceful and a lovely way to end the day of riding.

The comfortable Hungarian horse and saddle

When the riding is done, the enjoyment isn’t – as I appreciated sitting on our terrace with a cool drink, and then joining the rest of the guests for dinner in the evening. The dinners were fabulous treats, with different set three-course dinners each night. The hosts are very knowledgeable about local wine, the production of which is hugely successful in Hungary. A highlight was our musical evening, when we were serenaded by a local award -inning musician and the boldest among us danced along while the cowboys sang.

The multi-talented wranglers preparing the goulash

I so enjoyed all aspects of my stay at Homoki, the fun riding with interesting routes, the unique and luxurious accommodations and food, and the beautiful and temperate landscape. Upon our departure we spent a few nights in Budapest, a fascinating city which is also well worth the visit. It was a wonderful introduction to a region I knew little about, and whetted my appetite for further trips!

By Megan Barrett

A new riding vacation in Ireland

Ireland has always been a special place to me, and one of the most popular destinations that we offer. There’s something about the place where riding and horses are such a deep part of the culture, and the people so welcoming that makes it a wonderful Equitours destination. Returning to the lush green island is almost like coming home for me, and I try to get back to visit as often as I can. Before my last planned trip I was contacted by a ride operator in Westport who has been running treks since 1995. The ride looked promising and like it would complement our other trips well, so I rearranged my plans to include a few days riding on the Clew Bay Trail to test out this new riding vacation in Ireland.

Downtown Westport

The train ride from Dublin to Westport took about 4 hours but the time went by quickly as I watched the green landscape pass by. Padraic is the trip’s guide and he picked me up from the small train station and took me to the accommodations for my first night in Westport, the Clew Bay Hotel. The weather had been mixed coming up from Dublin and although the rain clouds were still hanging in the sky, blue was shining through. I decided to use this time before my early night to explore the quaint town a bit and to try to buy an electrical adapter for my laptop, which I realized I had left behind at home. The mercurial weather had already turned to pouring rain, but I darted through the city center, visiting some shops and eventually finding my necessary electrical equipment. It didn’t take long until I could no longer ignore my jet lag and hunger, so I went back to the hotel’s restaurant/bar for dinner. Lovely smoked salmon paired with some home-made bread and a pint of Kilkenny beer was an excellent way to calm my hunger pangs and sent me off into a good night’s rest.

The next morning I had a quick breakfast at the hotel before being picked up for the trail by Paddy, Padraic’s father, who does all the transfers on the ride. The horses had already been trailered to the starting point of today’s trek, so shortly after joining them we mounted up and started off.

My steed was Maggie, a surefooted and fun Irish Cobb who took me safely around the trail for a few hours and then through hinterland with Croagh Patrick in view.

Maggie

We then headed to the beach for the first few gallops along the shores of Clew Bay; always such a treat to ride along the surf! The weather, although cool, was kind enough not to rain on us and I thoroughly enjoyed my riding. In addition to Padraic, my trail-mates were his daughter Ailise and her friend Laura, who accompanied us on my two days there since their season hadn’t yet officially started.

Around 4pm we were back from riding and since it was a lovely late afternoon clear of rain, I decided to explore Westport a bit further. I soon found myself on my way to Westport House as I was automatically drawn to the green woods on this lovely estate that is open to the public. Although it was too late in the day to visit the house’s rooms and exhibits, the grounds were so inviting and the varied hues of green enchanting.

“The grounds surrounding Westport House are an eclectic fusion of natural wonders, architectural grandeur and fascinating antiquities. The vast expanse of Clew Bay, the Atlantic Ocean and Ireland’s holy mountain Croagh Patrick in the distance provide an idyllic backdrop to the Estate’s tumbling waterfalls, terraces, promenades and lofty ancient oaks. Whispers of the past are evident at each turn from the large soup pots used to feed the hungry during the Great Famine, a Spanish Armada cannon and the 3000 year old Greek sarcophagus brought back from Howe Peter’s excavations at Mycenae in Greece. Proud and graceful, a bronze casting of Grace O’Malley is a highlight amongst the grounds’ features, one of only two likenesses of the great Pirate Queen.” -From Westport House’s Website

Westport House

From there I headed further down towards the quay area of the town. As I was meandering down to the waterfront I found myself striking up a conversation with two lovely Irish ladies from Kilkenny town who were in town for a cycling weekend. We ended up having dinner together at The Helm, an award winning pub and restaurant along the harbor, and the food was incredible! I had the best black pudding over mashed potatoes with scallops, an unusual combination but divine!

For my next two nights I tried out the different B&B accommodations available on this ride and stayed at McCarthy’s guesthouse, around the corner from the Clew Bay hotel. This lodge was quaint and comfortable and the owner served a full Irish breakfast the next morning before I headed back out on the trail. Today’s ride was a combination of two of the days of the itinerary as Padraic wanted to show me a cross-section of the ride with the short time I had. We had the pleasure of more gallops along the beach before heading back inland and riding along heather, peat and moss covered hillsides with views of the bay. The two days of riding where not nearly enough but gave me a good glimpse of what is available on this promising riding vacation in Ireland.

On the move

It is also a great option for non-riders as Clew Bay is a top class activity hub and a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts. Non riders can choose from walking, cycling, fishing, sailing, diving, golf, and a host of other adventure activities.

I really enjoyed my time on the Clew Bay Trail and am excited to be offering it to you in 2016! It offers a wonderful combination of excellent riding and cultural interaction in local inns and restaurants in a beautiful part of Ireland.

By Biggi Hayes